Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Windy and ambitious cruise

This was the last cruise before winter. The distinguished Crewmembers were:

Aaron Kaplan,

Andreas Wildberger

Christian Singer

and KarlHeinz Wolf.

Only small winds at 4 bft were announced in the morning of Friday, 18th September. So we decided to go to Kokkari in the north of Samos, taking a bath at Megali Lakka onroute. Afternoon the wind grew to 6 Bft from northwest, so my crew was tested by high waves and hard tacking. In Kokkari we were the only sailing boat anchoring in front of the restaurant row, but we had faboulous T-Bone Steaks medium rare at Dyonissios as usual. The night was rather choppy, the wind kept blowing. So we changed our route in the morning and went back east, stopping for dinner and a long swim at Kasonisi in the east bay of Samos.

After fixing a small problem with the anchor relais we spent a quiet night at Pythagorion Marina and next day sailed downwind to Leros, where we anchored in front of Pantelis Harbour and climbed up to the beautiful castle. After a windy night we set sail with reef 3 and tacked for 5 hours thru heavy 7 bft winds to Marathi in the Arki archipelago. After an evening walk we had a nice dinner at Pandelis. Next day we continued northeast to Agathonisi harbor, anchoring in front of Glaros restaurant, where we enjoyed an excellent dinner with superbly grilled dorades and lamb. The last day was very pleasant sailing back to Pythagorion Marina.

Thanks to my ambitious crew, who also helped me to prepare Sea of Joy for a long winter pause.

18th – 23rd September 2009, 170sm, 33 sailing hours

You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

You can also view a video about this cruise on youTube:

Roundtrip to Amorgos

All crewmembers came from the Austrian domain registry Axel Mayrhofer, Klaus Darilion, Klemens Pidner and Till Radermacher.
With only small winds we sailed south to Leros. On route a new crew member joined our rainy cruise to Leros - a small bird named Icterine Warbler (Hippolais icterina).

In Leros we anchored in heavy rain in front of Pantelis harbor. Soon all lights on the island went out due to a power problem. But late at night starting with candlelight we got our usual excellent meze-dinner at Dimitris Karaflas . Next day we sailed against a 5-6 bft northwest wind to Levitha, where we moored at one of the red bouys in the east cove. After a nice evening walk we had a good dinner with goat and liver-stifado cooked by the island farmers family.
Next morning we continued tacking further west with a lunch-stop at narrow Ormos Pningos at Kinara and finally anchored at a sheltered sandy beach north of Aigiali on the north coast of Amorgos. Starting early next day we had no wind at all and motored all the way to Fourni harbor, where we ate lots of small red fish at Miltos restaurant.

Starting again with no wind we crossed over to the west coast of Samos, where we stopped for a swim at Megalo Sheitani – the most beautiful beach of Samos. Moderate winds brought us further to Kokkari at the north coast of Samos, where we anchored in the small harbour and enjoyed the usual good barbecue dinner at Dyonissios restaurant. On the last day we rounded the northeast corner of Samos, stopped at Megali Lakka for a nice lunch and a swim and finally ended with a speedy sail thru Samos Straits at Pythagorion Marina.

My crew made the best use of all available chances: they tacked when there was lot of wind and they cooked and dined when there was no wind.

11th – 16th September 2009, 213sm, 45 sailing hours

You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

The Stastny Cruise

The Stastny family is a family of distinguished sailors: Gusti, Julia, Raffael and Richard. I admired their professional sailing of Sea of Joy. We started south visiting the nice east bay under Ns Nero in the north of Agathonisi and anchored finally in front of Pantelis harbour on Leros. Dinner was at Dimitris Karaflas famous meze-restaurant.

After visiting Pantelis castle we continued west tacking against a 6 bft northwest wind to Levitha, where we moored at one of the red bouys in the east cove. After a good evening walk we had dinner at the island farmers family restaurant with perfectly grilled fish and meat. Next day we turned north and sailed to Grikos Bay in Patmos.

Having visited Patmos monastery and apocalipsy cove we sailed with strong northwesterly winds to Marathi in the Arki archipelago, where we enjoyed the usual evening walk and a good dinner at Pantelis restaurant.

Next day we decided to sail through Samos strait to Posidonias Bay. On the last day we did a nice sightseeing sail along the south coast of Samos with an anchor-break at Kiriakouli Bay for lunch and a good swim.

I want to thank the professional Stastny crew for this beautiful sailing week.

4th – 9th September 2009, 168sm, 36 sailing hours

You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Istanbul to Samos

After visiting the impressive sites of Istanbul and dining in fabulous restaurants, my wife Ilse and I started our trip cruising from Atakoy Marina through Bosporus Straits to Poyraz, looking into the Black Sea, and then further to Princess Islands, where we anchored in Cam Limani in the South of Heybeliada. We expected a quiet beautiful bay, but reality was different: crowded, loud disco-music, dirty water, lot of wind.
So we started early next morning and sailed with 6Bft from starboard to beautiful Port Maramara, where we replenished our provisions and had dinner at Calif restaurant.
Next day we continued sailing to Gelibolu, where we anchored west of the harbor. We had very good fish at the famous Ilhane restaurant and enjoyed a quiet night.
In the morning we hoisted our Genua only
and dashed thru the beautiful Dardanelles, using the current to a max speed of 10kn. Afternoon we arrived in Bozcaada harbor and had a real gourmet dinner at Lodos restaurant.
Next morning we sailed to the south of Bozcaada, anchored for a swim and then had troubles getting our anchor up, which was stuck between rocks. Only after two courageous runs with full power forward over the anchor we were able to get it back from beautiful Bozcaada island. We continued to Behramkale and anchored east of the harbor, which seemed far to small for us. Because of a strong northwest we decided to stay on board and cooked a creative risotto with cucumber.
Early in the morning the wind calmed down,
so we were able to visit ancient Assos and had a beautiful view over Lesbos Strait. After a refreshing swim we continued to Ayvalik archipelago, spent afternoon at Guemues Koyu and finally anchored in Alibey harbor. After a delicious dinner at Bay Nihat restaurant we had some problems finding our dinghi, because some harbor doors were closed and a motorboat wanted our mooring place. Finally back on board we spent a stormy night, but our good anchor held unperturbed in Alibey harbor.
Arriving at Dikili, the manager of the cooperative of the local fishermen gave us the last mooring place in the crowded harbor directly at the fishrestaurant. Next day he organized a taxi for our visit of ancient Bergamon,
which was most impressive in comparisson to our visit 30 years before. After the second night in Dikili we had to go thru the Turkish exit-procedures with the usual visits to police, customs and harbormaster. We had the impression being the first people to do this in a year because most officials seemed to see our Turkish travellog for the first time.
Likewise time-consuming were the Greek entry-formalities in Mitilini after our short passage to Lesbos, where we finally moored stern-to in the large and noisy harbor. We took two days visiting all archeological sites and museums. Most impressive was Teriade museum south of Mitilini with a collection of works from Picasso, Chagall, Matisse etc. A nice culinary surprise was dinner at the Lemoni kai Prasino Piperi restaurant in the southwestern corner of the harbor.
We continued north relaxing and swimming in Pamfilla bay and then west where we moored in Petras. For the passage to Limnos we started early and arrived in Freshwater Bay in the afternoon, where we anchored near a beautiful sandy beach and relaxed there for three quiet days, enhanced by a short roundtrip and an excellent fishsoup in Moidros Bay.
We explored the south coast of Limnos, swimming and spending one night in the east Bay of Ormos ThanosEast, and finally arrived in Mirina harbor, where we anchored and climbed up to the beautiful castle.
After spending a windy day in Ormos Platy we sailed with strong northerly winds through very high and confused seas back to the west of Lesbos, where we anchored in the clear and cold waters of the beautiful Bay at Sigri.
Next day on the way to Kolpos Kallonis I heard a strange beating sound while motoring. I found the starboard aft mounting of the Volvo diesel becoming loose and fixed it provisorlily while anchoring near Eressou beach. Then we entered Kallonis Bay and anchored at Apothiki in very strong winds.
Continuing east next day with a closed reefed genua I suddenly saw, that the mounting of the genua furler was loose on one side. Counting myself lucky I was able to fix the other side with a spare screw and motored into Plumari harbor. Thanks to a very able mechanic we were able to fix the bolt of the mounting of the genua furler after releasing the backstays a bit. In the evening the nice mechanic came again and adjusted the motor mounting which was not adjusted due to my rough-and ready fixation the last day. Plumary is a nice town, we spent two days there relaxing and replenishing our provisions.
Leaving Plumary with repairs done we reached the eastern Bay of Ormos Tarti, where we anchored and relaxed. But the wind grew stronger again and next morning we left south for Chios. When the wind slowed down we decided to go to Marmaro Bay, but coming nearer the wind grew very stronmg again. So we had to change course again for Mandraki harbor south of Oinoussa. Mandraki was full with motor yachts and we were sent away. But we found a quiet place next to the harbor, where we went for a swim and spent the night undisturbed.
When the wind increased again, we sailed down south to unfinished but secure Marina Chios,
where we lay alongside for three days, renting a car and doing first a roundtrip south to Nea Moni, Lithion, Mesta, Phyrgos and Karfas. The next roundtrip was north to Anavatos, Limnia, Kampia, Viki, Nagos, Kardamyla and Marmaro Bay.
Weather forecast announced much stronger winds for the future, so we started our last leg to Samos with northerly 7Bft winds and arrived there in the evening at Posidonias Bay, where it was quiet and nice. So we spent two days there before sailing the last 5 miles into Samos Marina.
It was an eventful cruise with lots of wind and some quiet and relaxing days. 
You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Samos to Istanbul

On Friday 26th July 2009, after having cleared police, harbormaster and customs, S/Y Sea of Joy left Pythagorion harbor through Samos Strait at noon and tacked against westerly wind to Cesme Harbor, where we finally moored near midnight.

Next day we bought the Turkish travel log at the marina office and worked through the tedious entry formalities, visiting police, customs, health control and harbormaster in Cesme. At noon we left north and reached Kavurlukoz harbor, where we were the only sailing boat. The owner of the harbor restaurant started his barbecue and prepared for us a tasty lamb and chicken dinner.

On Sunday we visited Eskifoca, stopped for a swim in beautiful Bademli Channel, nearly got stuck in heavy silted Bademli harbor, and finally squeezed in between small fishing boats in Dikili harbor, where we enjoyed fresh grilled fish at the local harbor restaurant.

Monday morning we restocked our provisions and continued north with weak westerly winds, explored the wonderful Ayvalik archipelago and moored in Adibey harbor, climbed the hill to the old windmill and dined at the famous Bay Nihat restaurant.

We left early Tuesday morning, followed some dolphins near the northern coast of Lesbos, turned north at Babakale and reached Bozcaada harbor, where we enjoyed a swim in clear water and a tasteful dinner at Yakamoz restaurant.

Wednesday we started before dawn to make as much way as possible through the Dardanelles. In weak winds we kept to the south side and explored a maximum current of 2.5 knots near Canakkale at noon. When the wind grew stronger from NE we could tack our way through the northern part of the Dardanelles.

We anchored in the quiet bay of Kemer, where Gerhard prepared his famous “spaghetti con aglio, olio e pomodoro” .

Nice north easterly winds continued on Thursday, so we could sail the whole day in the Sea of Marmara, visiting beautiful Pasalimani and tacking on the northern coast of the Kapidag peninsula, sometimes accompanied by a swarm of friendly dolphins. We spent the night anchoring in Cakilkoy harbor.

Next day we started early sailing further east. When the wind grew weak, we motored NE right to Atakoy marina.

On Saturday we made the usual Bosporus trip, passing the famous Blue Mosque,

then Galata Bridge, Dolmabahce palace, and finally Rumeli castle up north



Turning south on the Asian side back via Beylerbeyi to Ueskuedar, passing Kiz Kulesi to Fenerbahce Marina.







As a total we logged 485sm for this cruise, which took us 88 hours of sailing in 9 days. My ambitious crew made this possible: Congratulations and thanks to Albert Burgstaller, Gerhard Heumayer and Kurt Drexler (from left to right) !

You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Heavy Sailing south of Samos

In the week from June 11th to 18th, 2009 S/Y Sea of Joy sailed with a very ambitious couple, Elisabeth and Andreas Haemmerle, in rather strong winds south of Samos.

Leaving Marina Pythagorion we sailed to Ns. Samipoula and then southwest to Fourni, where we pulled up alongside in Fourni Harbour and enjoyed delicous lobster and fish dinner at Miltos Taverna. Next day we sailed southeast to Lera Lipsi, a beautiful bay in the southeast of Ns. Lipso, where Andreas cooked a fabulous lamb in the oven.

The third day brought us to Skala Patmos, where we met S/Y Charisma, a catamaran skippered by Karl Hitschmann and his crew. After a visit to the monastery we had a good dinner with our friends. Next day we sailed southeast to Ormos Pantelis on the East coast of Leros, where we anchored and enjoyed a superb dinner and view at Dimitris Karaflas Restaurant.

Next morning we visited Leros Castle and then sailed to Marathi in the Arki archipelago, where we had an nice dinner with the crew of S/Y Charisma at Pandelis. The last day we sailed back northeast to Pythagorion Marina. The last five miles we had a very hot and strong notherly wind. We had our last dinner in the Marina at the excellent "Steak House", with the award-winning cook Mama Anna and grill-master Andreas served couteously by Heleni and Philip.

We logged 175sm on this eventful and harmonious cruise. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Spring Cruise round Samos

From 4th to 11th of June 2009 we did a nice spring cruise. We started in Marina Pythagorion, rounded the East of Samos tacking in nice winds and anchored in Kokkari for a good dinner. Next day took us westward to beautiful Megalo Sheitani Bay and then to Agios Kirykos, Ikaria, where we were the only sailing boat this night.
We continued westwards to Mikonos and spend the night anchoring in nice Elia Bay and then sailed back to quiet Stavros Bay in Patmos. Next morning we anchored in Skala Patmos to visit the monastery and continued to Marathi Island in Arki, where we had a nice dinner at Pandelis. The last leg was back to Samos, where we had a nice last sailing on the South coast to Marina Pythagorion.
My attentive and competent crew:
  • Andrea Köhler-Ludescher
  • Stefan Köhler
  • Richard Stastny
proved themselves very seaworthy and seemed to enjoy this 218sm cruise.
In addition to being good sailors, Stefan is chairman and Richard crew member also on board of the advisory committee of the Austrian Internet Foundation's sponsoring project "netidee" .
You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Next cruise June 4th 2009

Our next cruises will be in the area of Samos.
End of June we sail to Istanbul.

Easter 2009 in Samos

Greek Easter in Samos was a nice experience. Weather was rather cold. Swimming was possible, but at 16° Celsius very frosty. So we did a lot of hiking all around Samos.

Here are google-map-links to 2 wonderful round-trips we did in Samos:

  • pefkosRound, here is a picture of Pery Beach in the South of Samos

Here is a small map of this hike:

pefkosRound auf einer größeren Karte anzeigen

End of April we did the usual antifouling and service work in Marina Pythagorion. Now Sea of Joy is fit for the season.