Saturday, August 24, 2013

Sailing Highlights near Napoli

My next crew consisting of four competent and well-trained ladies arrived in Marina di Stabia on August 17th 2013. We celebrated the start of our cruise with a delicious fish dinner at Piazetta Milu. Next day we sailed via Golfo di Sorrento to Capri, where we anchored south of Marina Piccola and I cooked my well-tried Risotto al Limone.

Next day we sailed east via Positano to Amalfi, where we again moored at Aniello Esposito's place and had dinner at Ristorante Il Mulino.
In the morning, after a good breakfast at the traditional Pasticceria Pansa and some shopping we sailed northwest to the small harbor of Marina di Chiaiolella. We enjoyed a good dinner at Ristorante Crescenzo.

Next morning we went to Procida town by bus and visited the castle and the old churches. After a swim we tacked northwest to Ventotene, where we anchored east of the harbor. Because of high waves and a lot of northeasterly wind it was not advisable to use the dinghi for landing, so we stayed onboard. Next morning the wind decreased and we sailed back to the south coast of Ischia, where we stopped for a nice swim at Maronti Beach.

In the evening we sailed further east to Ischia Ponte and anchored again south of Castello Aragonese, where we savoured a nice local dinner at Da Ciccio. On August 23rd we sailed back to Marina di Stabia for the last crew change, where we celebrated this nice cruise with my crew at Ristorante President  with a delicious menu accompanied by a local tenor, who gave a concert in nearby Piazza Schettini in Pompei.

We sailed 168sm in 39 hours. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Cruising the islands round Napoli

On August 5th my daughter Sophie and I set sail to Sorrento. With nearly no wind we motored to Marina del Cantone, where we booked a boy. In the evening we walked up to Nerano and then had a nice dinner at Maria Gracia.  Next day we sailed via Positano to Amalfi, where we again moored at Aniello Esposito's place. After a detailed visit to Sant'Andrea Cathedral, Chiostro Paradiso and the Crypt we had very good pasta at Ristorante Il Mulino.

After some exploration of Amalfi's picturesque coast we sailed back via Isole Galli to Capri and anchored near Faraglioni rocks. Sophie climbed up to Via Krupp and hiked up to the Piazetta in Capri town and back via Giardini di Augusto while I cooked Risotto al Limone. Early morning we found a lot of jellyfish surrounding our boat. We changed our anchor place nearer to Marina Piccola and tried to go onshore by dinghi, but everywhere we were turned away by avaricious lifeguards.

Next morning we proceeded to Grotta Azzurra, where a lot of boats waited for entry. Sophie was able to get in by swimming to the next hotel and climbing down the steps to the entry. Then it was time for us to leave loud and inhospitable Capri and we sailed to Ischia Ponte, where we anchored south of Castello Aragonese.

Next day we explored Procida and moored in the small harbor of Marina di Chiaiolella. We enjoyed a good dinner at Ristorante Crescenzo and did a lot of walking round Procida. After a visit to the closed bird-sanctuary Isola di Vivara next day we sailed with nice westerly winds tacking to Ventotene, where we anchored in front of the harbor.

On August 12th we explored the nice Island of Ventotene, where emperor Augustus banished his daughter Julia the Elder in 2 BC, and which used to be a prison camp until 1950. In the afternoon we sailed further west to the Island of Ponza, where we anchored in impressive Cala di Inferno in the middle of some hundred Italian boats.

We enjoyed the clear waters for some days, visited Cala di Luna and Ponza harbor, where we had good fish dinner at Ristorante Il Timone. On Ferragosto August 15th, we rounded Ponza in the north and sailed back to Ischia Ponte, where we again anchored south of Castello Aragonese surrounded by Ferragosto fireworks until 3AM. At noon next day we sailed back via the coast of Napoli to Marina di Stabia for the next crew change. In the evening we had an interesting dinner in Taverna Mascalzone. Sophie's flight back to Vienna was delayed for 18 hours due to an engine breakdown.

We sailed 232sm in 54 hours. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.

Sunday, August 4, 2013

Licata to Napoli

After more than two years in Sicilian waters we decided to move on to Sardinia. After a glorious farewell dinner at Pino Cuttaia's famous restaurant La Madia  my wife Ilse and I left our friends at Marina Cale del Sole in Licata and sailed to Marina Ragusa on Monday 8th, July 2013. Early next day with nice westerly wind we sailed to Syracusa and had dinner at our favorite restaurant Sicilia in Tavola. We continued our well-known route to Catania, were we again enjoyed our wunderful fish-menu at Le Tre Bocce. On July 11th we continued with some southerly winds to Taormina, where we anchored in front of the railway station.

Next day we were lucky tacking against nice notherly winds through Messina Strait and anchored east of Scilla. Early next morning we continued north to Tropea, where we anchored for a nice swim and finally moored in Marina Stella Sud in Vibo Valentia, where we had dinner at Sapori di Mare. After bunkering food and fuel we sailed next day until midnight to Cetraro, where we anchored east of the harbor. Early on July 15th we sailed with two bathing stops at Isola Cirella and Isola Dino via Marathea to Sapri, where we anchored in the large north bay.

Next day we enjoyed the most picturesque Golfo di Policastro and finally moored at Albatros in Porto Scario, where we savoured a nice dinner at Vini..Le. We motored next morning with no wind to Acciaroli, were we moored in the nice harbour.

Routinely checking the level of motor-oil I found a lot of water in the bilge. After pumping it out I found, that a hose from the seawater-pump was chafed. Checking the seawater-pump I also found, that the impeller was broken and the housing was ripped. But soon we found the good in the bad, when we got help from Giovanni from Chantieri Schiavone, who mounted new hoses and ordered a new seawater-pump.

So our boat had to stay in Acciaroli for six days until the pump was finally replaced.
We were happy to use those days visiting Cilento, beautiful Vallo di Diano National Park, and swimming in those magnificent sandy beaches. We enjoyed the local restaurants, especially 'a Tartana and Boccaccio. We rented a car and visited Paestum, the Amalfi Coast, Caserta, Napoli, and Vesuvio.

Finally on Wednesday , July 24th we were able to continue sailing directly to Salerno, where we had a marvelous dinner at Ristorante Cicirinella. Next day we sailed along the admirable Amalfi Coast and were happy to find a free mooring place at Aniello Esposito in Amalfi harbor. We visited the impressive church of San Andrea and spent a wonderful evening with an exquisite dinner at Michelin-stared La Caravella.
Next morning we continued via Isole Galli to Capri, where we anchored in front of the Faraglioni Rocks near Marina Piccola next to Roman Abramovich's Eclipse and Larry Ellison's Rising Sun. Hoping for more peaceful surroundings we sailed north to Porto Miseno next noon, where we anchored near quiet Lago Miseno. Next morning we rounded Acquamorta and anchored for swimming in front of anchient Cumae. At noon we sailed north of Procida to Ischia Porto, where we moored at Porto Salvo Marina and visited the city and Castello Aragonese. Next day we rounded Ischia and finally anchored south of Ischia Ponte. Tuesday we sailed along the coast of Golfo di Napoli via Procida, Pozzuoli, Nisida, San Nazzaro, Napoli, Torre del Greco, Torre Annunziata to Marina di Stabia west of Castellamare di Stabia, where we had our outboard engine repaired and enjoyed a very good fish dinner at Piazetta Milu.

Wednesday 31st July we sailed back via Sorrento to Capri, where we got hold of a bumpy mooring place in Marina Grande for 235 Eur wandering around the island round Giardini Augusto, Via Krupp, and Marina Piccola. Finally we climbed the
clocktower at the Piazetta in Capri centro and relished a nice local dinner at Pulalli Wine Bar. Next morning we shifted to our old anchor place south of Marina Piccola. In the afternoon of August 2nd we sailed back to Marina di Stabia for my first change of crew there. My wife and I celebrated her awesome cruise from Licata to Castellamare di Stabia with a gorgeous dinner in Boccareale at La Locanda da Alfonso.

We sailed 607sm in 139 hours. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on Google Maps.