September 18th we started from Cres northwards under dark clouds with my old sailing friends Gusti and Richard. As we rounded Cape Jablanac in the north of Cres the rain started and the wind vanished. Motoring under the famous bridge of Krk we finally reached sandy Klimno Bay in Zaton Soline where we anchored and met my friends Sissy and Michael for a nice dinner at Zal restaurant. With pouring rain we left next morning sailing south along the islands of Krk and Rab. When we anchored after some 56 sm at Uvala Slatinica on the east side of Olib island the rain finally stopped and we ate a warming soup and some cheese.
Next day we left early and sailed with nice easterly winds along the east side of Dugi Otok, took a round trip in Telascica national park and finally moored at my favorite spot in Kornati national park at Konoba Lervrnaka with a nice dinner. Early next morning we took a walk around the island and then enjoyed Kornati national park sailing leisurely around the beautiful islands. In the evening we sailed with strong NE wind to the southeastcorner of Murter and moored in ACI Marina Jezera. We replenished our provisions and had a good Croatian dinner at Konoba Boris.
September 22nd we sailed southeast between islands Zmljan and Kaprije, passed Hrid Mulo and moored at a buoy of Konoba Lanterna in Uvala Scicenica, where we enjoyed the sunset and had an excellent but expensive dinner with fish and steak. Next morning we decided to visit Split and sailed east along Ciovo and moored at noon in ACI Marina Split.
We visited Diocletian's Palace and had a extraordinary good Pizza at Konoba Gust. Early next morning we headed back west along the south coast of Drvenik islands, turned north along Primosten, sailed through Sibenski Kanal, passed Tribunj, tacked alongside Murter and finally anchored in Kosirina bay after 57sm.
Next day we sailed along Hramina and Betina to the north of Murter, sailed into Pasmanski Kanal. After passing Biograd the wind turned and we tacked sportingly against a firm northwesterly wind to Zadar and finally anchored in Sutomiscica bay on the east coast of Otok Ugljan.
On September 26th with no wind we motored northwest alongside the east coat of islands Molat, Ist, and Premuda and finally moored happy alongside in Susak harbor. We took a hike to the old village on top of a sand dune, visited the fortress, church, cemetery and tasted the local wine. After sunset we savoured a nice dinner at Konoba Sansegus.
Next morning we left Susak and crossed the famous Kvarner Gulf with good northeasterly winds, passed Hrid Porer, entered the bay of Pula and moored at noon at the ACI Marina. In the afternoon we visited the famous Roman Arena and the fortress. We celebrated Richard's birthday with a splendid dinner at Bistrot Alighieri. Next day we visited the food market and bought some shrimps and eels and some high quality vegetables. Then we sailed back south east, rounded Hrid Porer again and sailed with weak winds into the vast Bay of Medulin, where we anchored in Pomerski bay and enjoyed our fish dinner.
In the morning of September 29th we finished our Medulin cruise, then headed north exploring the bays on Istria's east coast and anchored in Uvala Prklog, where we cooked some spicy shrimps. On the last day we visited crowded Rabac bay and crossed Kvarner again to Cres where we moored in Cres marina at last. We celebrated our wonderful autumn cruise with fair winds and good weather at Riva restaurant with a fine fish dinner. Next day it started raining again, Gusti and Richard left for Vienna. I used the day doing some maintenance works and made Sea of Joy ready for the winter in Cres Marina. With heavy rain I left Cres going back home by car next day.
We sailed 89h and logged 500sm in 13 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Sunday, October 2, 2016
Monday, September 5, 2016
Smooth Sea, Slight Wind, Beach Weather
With my 3 year old grandson Jonas and his parents Matthias and Isabella we started our next cruise south with no wind on August 28th. We stopped in Martinscica Bay for a short swim and continued south to beautiful Uvala Tomozina in the north west coast of Losinj, where we spent the night at anchor and cooked two nice branzinos in the oven. Early next day we explored the surroundings swimming and hiking. Jonas marveled at the small pirate-like bay. At noon we continued south to Veli Zal, where we met again Laurenz, Sophie and Chris at the crowded beach of Hotel Aurora.
The next two nights we spent moored at a buoy in quiet Uvala Krivica and swam a lot in smooth and clear waters.
August 31st afternoon we motored to Mali Losinj harbor, visited the beautiful city, bought some more provisions, and had dinner at Konoba Hajduk. Next morning just on time at 09:00 local time we passed the turning bridge west through Privlaka channel to our favourite bay at Uvala Meli, where we spent the next two days swimming, playing, and relaxing.
As my son Matthias complained about an earache we returned to Mali Losinj, headed to the local hospital and got some medication, which eased his pain. Then we set sail north to Uvala Slatina, where we met some friends and spent the night at anchor. On August 4th we returned with slight winds to Cres Marina and enjoyed dinner at Konoba Roza.
Next morning we left together with heavy rain to Austria by car.
We sailed 25h and logged 97sm in 9 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
The next two nights we spent moored at a buoy in quiet Uvala Krivica and swam a lot in smooth and clear waters.
August 31st afternoon we motored to Mali Losinj harbor, visited the beautiful city, bought some more provisions, and had dinner at Konoba Hajduk. Next morning just on time at 09:00 local time we passed the turning bridge west through Privlaka channel to our favourite bay at Uvala Meli, where we spent the next two days swimming, playing, and relaxing.
As my son Matthias complained about an earache we returned to Mali Losinj, headed to the local hospital and got some medication, which eased his pain. Then we set sail north to Uvala Slatina, where we met some friends and spent the night at anchor. On August 4th we returned with slight winds to Cres Marina and enjoyed dinner at Konoba Roza.
Next morning we left together with heavy rain to Austria by car.
We sailed 25h and logged 97sm in 9 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Saturday, August 27, 2016
Sandy beaches and some Bora
On August 13th Sophie and Chris arrived again on board with their son Laurenz for another cruise. They both climbed the mast and helped me replace the broken shackle of the genua head. August 15th we sailed south into the small and quiet bay Radiboj in the north of Losinj Island, where we anchored for the night in turquoise waters. 18 month old Laurenz enjoyed swimming with his parents. Next morning just on time at 09:00 local time we reached Osor and passed the turning bridge through Osor channel southwards. We reached the island Orulje Male and spent the afternoon and the night again at anchor in beautiful surroundings with a specific Caribbean feeling.
Next moring we sailed east with Slight westerly winds brought us further east to Island of Pag, where we anchored in front of the crowded beach of Camping Simunj. We enjoyed the beach, beautiful weather, and late at night fireworks just in front of our boat. The following day we left at noon south for Zadar harbor, where we moored at Tankerkomerc Marina and visited the old city and had dinner at Konoba Donat. After an early morning thunder storm with a lot of rain, thunder and lightning we continued sightseeing and replenished our provisions.
Early afternoon we set sail again north and anchored at sandy Zaton Beach for the night.
On August 20th we strolled along Zatons's Sepurine beach and then continued north to Sapavac bay in the south of island Vir, where we anchored again near the sandy beach, which Laurenz enjoyed. Next day at noon we received a gale warning up to 9 Bft. So we sailed further north to ACI Marina Simunj where we weathered this rather strong Bora for the next three days hiking, playing, and having nice dinners at Konoba Didova Kuca.
With weakening winds we sailed north to Uvala Meli in the SE end of Cres, where we anchored again and Laurenz and his parents enjoyed their favourite sandy beach. On August 25th we sailed north with rather strong westerly winds, slipped through Osor channel at 17:00 and anchored in Uvala Ustrine for the night. The last day of our joint cruise we were happy to sail north with firm westerly winds right into Cres Marina, where we met my other grandson Jonas and his parents Matthias and Isabella. So we spent a rather crowded night on board with two young sailors and their parents.
We sailed 33h and logged 172sm in 13 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Next moring we sailed east with Slight westerly winds brought us further east to Island of Pag, where we anchored in front of the crowded beach of Camping Simunj. We enjoyed the beach, beautiful weather, and late at night fireworks just in front of our boat. The following day we left at noon south for Zadar harbor, where we moored at Tankerkomerc Marina and visited the old city and had dinner at Konoba Donat. After an early morning thunder storm with a lot of rain, thunder and lightning we continued sightseeing and replenished our provisions.
Early afternoon we set sail again north and anchored at sandy Zaton Beach for the night.
On August 20th we strolled along Zatons's Sepurine beach and then continued north to Sapavac bay in the south of island Vir, where we anchored again near the sandy beach, which Laurenz enjoyed. Next day at noon we received a gale warning up to 9 Bft. So we sailed further north to ACI Marina Simunj where we weathered this rather strong Bora for the next three days hiking, playing, and having nice dinners at Konoba Didova Kuca.
With weakening winds we sailed north to Uvala Meli in the SE end of Cres, where we anchored again and Laurenz and his parents enjoyed their favourite sandy beach. On August 25th we sailed north with rather strong westerly winds, slipped through Osor channel at 17:00 and anchored in Uvala Ustrine for the night. The last day of our joint cruise we were happy to sail north with firm westerly winds right into Cres Marina, where we met my other grandson Jonas and his parents Matthias and Isabella. So we spent a rather crowded night on board with two young sailors and their parents.
We sailed 33h and logged 172sm in 13 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Saturday, August 20, 2016
Choppy Summer Cruise
My two consulting friends Eva and Evi boarded Sea of Joy after a long drive from Vienna on August 6th. After one harbor day with some sight seeing because of bad weather we sailed south to the east coast of Unije and anchored in Uvala Vognisca. We enjoyed two nice branzinos cooked in the oven with wine and vegetables.
Next morning we sailed further south with faint northerly winds via Susak along the west coast of Premuda to the small island Skarda, where we took a buoy in Uvala Griparica and had a good swim in crystal clear waters.
Next day a cloudy sky welcomed us with no wind. So we motored back north along Silba Island into Ilovik channel, where we took a buoy and had a nice walk around the island and a good dinner at Konoba Oliva. At night we had some rain and wind. In the morning of August 11th with some rain but with a nice easterly wind we sailed north along Losinj.
As we rounded Cap Kurila, waves and wind got rather strong. Suddenly a loud bang came from the rig and I saw the genua coming down. After momentarily heaving to we tried to furl in the genua and secured her with some ropes. Tacking slowly with main sail and motor we made it into Uvala Vognisca in Unije again and anchored there safely. Later I found the head of the genua intact but a broken shackle. This is the second time that an expensive strong looking Wichard shackle has broken after only one year of use. Sailors are advised avoid those shackles!
The strong wind lasted through the night and next morning we continued tacking along the west coast of Cres and finally moored happily back in marina Cres. We celebrated our short cruise with a nice dinner at Konoba Roza and next morning Eva and Evi drove home back to Vienna.
We sailed 24h and logged 126sm in 6 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Next morning we sailed further south with faint northerly winds via Susak along the west coast of Premuda to the small island Skarda, where we took a buoy in Uvala Griparica and had a good swim in crystal clear waters.
Next day a cloudy sky welcomed us with no wind. So we motored back north along Silba Island into Ilovik channel, where we took a buoy and had a nice walk around the island and a good dinner at Konoba Oliva. At night we had some rain and wind. In the morning of August 11th with some rain but with a nice easterly wind we sailed north along Losinj.
As we rounded Cap Kurila, waves and wind got rather strong. Suddenly a loud bang came from the rig and I saw the genua coming down. After momentarily heaving to we tried to furl in the genua and secured her with some ropes. Tacking slowly with main sail and motor we made it into Uvala Vognisca in Unije again and anchored there safely. Later I found the head of the genua intact but a broken shackle. This is the second time that an expensive strong looking Wichard shackle has broken after only one year of use. Sailors are advised avoid those shackles!
The strong wind lasted through the night and next morning we continued tacking along the west coast of Cres and finally moored happily back in marina Cres. We celebrated our short cruise with a nice dinner at Konoba Roza and next morning Eva and Evi drove home back to Vienna.
We sailed 24h and logged 126sm in 6 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Saturday, August 6, 2016
Birthday in the Kornati Islands
After my grandson Laurenz and his parents left us for Vienna my wife and I started our next cruise on July 28th with dark clouds and some southerly wind to the north of Cres. After rounding Cap Jablanac we sailed southeast to Krk and finally anchored in the busy bay of Fuska and cooked spagetthi tonno. Next day we continued south with favorable northerly wind along Pag island to Uvala Sapavac on Vir island, where we anchored again and enjoyed a vegetable risotto.
Next morning we sailed west to the northern top of Dugi Otok and took a buoy in the large and beautiful bay near Veli Rat. In the evening we took the dinghy to Laterna restaurant. Shrimp risotto was very good, but the rest was awful and rather expensive.
On July 31st, my 65th birthday we decided to have a very special treat and sailed along the west coast of Dugi Otok directly to Levrnaka island in the center of the Kornati Islands. Crystal clear waters and a friendly staff welcomed us at Konoba Levrnaka and we had a wonderful birthday dinner with raw fish carpaccio, heavenly fish brodetto and chocolate mousse with truffles.
After a stroll around the island and a hearty breakfast we sailed through Vela Proversa with dark clouds, thunder and lightning. Suddenly a strong thunderstorm with squalls up to 40 knots and flying water forced us to take shelter by anchoring in Uvala Cuscica.
After one hour it was over and we proceeded to Knez Bay west of Iz island, where we took a buoy from Baroni restaurant and had a nice Croatian dinner there. Next day we sailed with fair easterly wind to Olib, where we moored at the busy harbor quai and took a walk around this quiet and down-to-earth island. In the evening a strong swell started and got stronger in the night. Some boats went away causing some chaos but we stayed trusting our strong aluminium boat.
On August 3rd we sailed with nice easterly winds through Ilovik channel and directly to beautiful Uvala Krivica at the west coast of Losinj, where with some luck we took the last free bouy and enjoyed the peaceful surroundings and took a nice walk to Konoba Bevandia where we had a rustic dinner. On the last day of our cruise nice northeasterly winds brought us back to Cres marina, where we had a sumptuous lamb dinner at Konoba Bukaletta.
On this leasurly cruise we sailed 48h and logged 234sm in 8 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Next morning we sailed west to the northern top of Dugi Otok and took a buoy in the large and beautiful bay near Veli Rat. In the evening we took the dinghy to Laterna restaurant. Shrimp risotto was very good, but the rest was awful and rather expensive.
On July 31st, my 65th birthday we decided to have a very special treat and sailed along the west coast of Dugi Otok directly to Levrnaka island in the center of the Kornati Islands. Crystal clear waters and a friendly staff welcomed us at Konoba Levrnaka and we had a wonderful birthday dinner with raw fish carpaccio, heavenly fish brodetto and chocolate mousse with truffles.
After a stroll around the island and a hearty breakfast we sailed through Vela Proversa with dark clouds, thunder and lightning. Suddenly a strong thunderstorm with squalls up to 40 knots and flying water forced us to take shelter by anchoring in Uvala Cuscica.
After one hour it was over and we proceeded to Knez Bay west of Iz island, where we took a buoy from Baroni restaurant and had a nice Croatian dinner there. Next day we sailed with fair easterly wind to Olib, where we moored at the busy harbor quai and took a walk around this quiet and down-to-earth island. In the evening a strong swell started and got stronger in the night. Some boats went away causing some chaos but we stayed trusting our strong aluminium boat.
On August 3rd we sailed with nice easterly winds through Ilovik channel and directly to beautiful Uvala Krivica at the west coast of Losinj, where with some luck we took the last free bouy and enjoyed the peaceful surroundings and took a nice walk to Konoba Bevandia where we had a rustic dinner. On the last day of our cruise nice northeasterly winds brought us back to Cres marina, where we had a sumptuous lamb dinner at Konoba Bukaletta.
On this leasurly cruise we sailed 48h and logged 234sm in 8 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Tuesday, July 26, 2016
Family sailing round Cres and Losinj
My 18 month old grandson Laurenz together with his parents Sophie and Chris joined my wife and me on board in Cres on July 12th. To test his seaworthiness we sailed next day to near Uvala Nedomisje. Laurenz enjoyed swimming and sailing. Afternoon we sailed back into Cres Marina. The next 4 days we stayed in the marina because of strong easterly winds, walking and swimming in the sheltered bay around Cres.
As the wind decreased on July 18th to a nice northeasterly 4 Bft we set sail south and anchored in Luka Ustrine. Next morning at 9am we passed the turning bridge at Osor, sailed to the southern end of Cres and anchored in Meli Bay for two days enjoying swimming and playing in shallow waters and sandy beaches.
On July 21st we sailed east to Rab city, where we moored in the marina, visited the 4 wonderful old churches, refilled our supplies, and had a fine Croatian dinner at Konoba Rab with seafood buzzara and the famous zabaglione palatschinkas. The next 2 days we spent again in Uvala Meli with Laurenz enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
At noon of July 24th we sailed north with fresh easterly winds to Uvala Martinscica, where we spent the night at anchor. At 9am next day we passed again Osor channel northwards and sailed with nice easterly winds back to Cres. Laurenz and the whole family fully enjoyed his first sailing experience.
We sailed 30h and logged 105sm in 13 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
As the wind decreased on July 18th to a nice northeasterly 4 Bft we set sail south and anchored in Luka Ustrine. Next morning at 9am we passed the turning bridge at Osor, sailed to the southern end of Cres and anchored in Meli Bay for two days enjoying swimming and playing in shallow waters and sandy beaches.
On July 21st we sailed east to Rab city, where we moored in the marina, visited the 4 wonderful old churches, refilled our supplies, and had a fine Croatian dinner at Konoba Rab with seafood buzzara and the famous zabaglione palatschinkas. The next 2 days we spent again in Uvala Meli with Laurenz enjoying the peaceful surroundings.
At noon of July 24th we sailed north with fresh easterly winds to Uvala Martinscica, where we spent the night at anchor. At 9am next day we passed again Osor channel northwards and sailed with nice easterly winds back to Cres. Laurenz and the whole family fully enjoyed his first sailing experience.
We sailed 30h and logged 105sm in 13 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Sunday, July 10, 2016
Cooking and Swimming in Cres and Losinj
A friendly family came on board on July 2nd: Elisabeth, Flora, Andreas, and Linus. Because of bad weather we started only 2 days later to Uvala Slatina, where we achored and cooked two nice scorpionfish in the oven. Not knowing that they were venomous when raw, they tasted very nice well cooked with wine and potatoes.
Next day we sailed to Unije and anchored in Uvala Vognisca enjoying a nice swim.
On July 6th with northerly winds we sailed to Mali Losinj, moored at the city harbor, and had a nice Croatian dinner at Hajduk restaurant.
Next moring we sailed back north to Luka Ustrine, where we roasted a saddle of lamb to the point and Elisabeth prepared a nice Linzertorte in our large frying pan. Next day we sailed further north, swam into the Blue Cave at Uvala Zanja and finally anchored in front of the beach at Valun, where we had a nice dinner at San Marco.
We ended our short cruise on July 9th in Cres and enjoyed a nice dinner at Riva restaurant in Cres.
We sailed 25h and logged 103sm in 6 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
Monday, June 13, 2016
Sicily to Croatia
The season started for Sea of Joy in Licata, Sicily, with the usual maintenance works: antifouling, paintwork, changing the propeller shaft seal, cleaning and greasing the MaxProp and finally changing all internal electrical lights to LED.
We decided to visit Croatia again and so we reserved a mooring place in ACI Marina Cres for June 2016. My friends Gerhard and Kurt came on board on Saturday 21st May to help me sailing our boat to Croatia. We planned to sail quickly in three legs to Montenegro, visit Kotor Bay and then sailing slowly north along the best sites in Croatian waters.
At noon of May 22th we were ready to set sail from Licata and did a short first leg to Marina di Ragusa, where we had a rather mediocre pizza at Ristorante Miramare .
Next day we left early east and at the SE end of Sicily we decided to cross directly to Calabria because of nice strong winds from astern. In the night volcano Etna was very active, wind and waves got rather strong and squally, changing directions very often.
Near Spartivento the wind stopped and we had to start the motor again, but in vain: after checking the diesel supply pipe and the prefilter I found them clogged by black slime - a clear sign of the infamous diesel bug.
Those are microbes clogging the filters in the fuel system unpredictably. There are numerous reports, where the engines stopped suddenly in wrong moments. Thanks to a new crazy European law requiring taxed diesel fuel to have a "bio" content the whole sailing community has this problem now. I changed all filters and cleaned all pipes, but I was not able to get the engine running again.
With strong northerly winds we sailed to Roccella Ionica, anchored under sail in front of the harbor. Then we contacted the helpful harbor master and when winds calmed down a friendly fisherman came with his strong boat, took us alongside and towed us into the harbor. Next day a helpful technician got the engine running again not without warning us, that this could happen anytime again...
We rented bycicles and rode to the center where we had a nice dinner at Bio Ristorante Amal.
Next day we took on our next leg and arrived after 22 hours in Santa Maria di Leuca. We visited the city and the famous light house and had a marvelous dinner at the well-hidden Trattoria Boccondivino.
On May 28th we sailed with nice southeasterly winds north via the straith of Otranto into Montenegro, where we arrived after 30 hours in Tivat, cleared customs with no problems, and got a mooring place in Porto Montenegro.
We had craft beers and steaks for dinner at The Black Sheep
Next morning we sailed round the beautiful bay of Kotor, moored in Kotor, climbed up to the Castle Of San Giovanni and enjoyed the wonderful view over Kotor Bay. Then we had our first typical dinner at Ponta Veranda: Pleskavica, Onions, and cabbage salad.
Early next day we declared exit in Tivat and sailed northwest into Cavtat, where we declared entry, cleared customs and payed the yearly Croatian fees to the harbor master. Then we continued along the walls of Dubrovnik to Celo Bay at Kolocep island, where we anchored and savoured pancakes with apricot jam.
With rather strong southeasterly wind we sailed next day into Lastovo, where we anchored in Mali Lago Bay and cooked spaghetti with tuna.
June 2nd we sailed to Vis, replenished our supplies, ate at Dudo Restaurant, and visited the famous Lion of Lissa. In the afternoon with no apparent reason we had to leave the city quai and moved to Kut in the east of Vis bay and moored there.
Nice winds brought us next day into the bay of Sibenik, where we visited the wonderful city in light rain. In the afternoon we continued through long fjords to Skradin, where we moored in the marina and had a remarkable good dinner at
Konoba Dalmatino.
Early next morning we visited the Krka falls and then sailed back to Sibenik and onwards Uvala Zincena on Otok Pasman, where we anchored and fried a nice steak with potatoes.
From Pasman we sailed next day through the Kornati archipelago and continued to Ist, where we moored at the village quai. At Lako Cemo we enjoyed lamb chops grilled to perfection by a nice grillmaster on a sophisticated barbecue.
On June 6th we sailed further north through Ilovik channel and finally moored in Marina Mali Losinj. We had a nice walk round the beautiful city and had a fine dinner in the nice garden at Konoba Hajduk.
At 09:00 next day we wanted to sail through the turning bridge at Mali Losinj, but it was broken. So we sailed round the southern end of Losinj and east to the beautiful Uvala Meli in the southern end of Otok Cres, where we anchored, enjoyed a nice swim in crital clear waters, and savoured two nice brancinos prepared in our oven.
Finally on June 8th we had to tack against northerly wind along the east coast of Cres, rounded Cap Jablanac and then the wind ceased. While we had to motor again the engine stopped 3 miles north of our destination - the diesel bug hit us again. I cleared the fuel lines again and bled the diesel pump in the secret ways I learned thwo weeks ago from the nice Calabrian mechanic and so we reached our final destination ACI Marina Cres in the evening. We had late dinner at Konoba Roza and slept very good in our boat safely moored in nice surroundings.
Next day I scheduled a date with the Volvo mechanic on site for a full motor service and cleaning of both tanks and then we went back home to Vienna.
We sailed 186h and logged 972sm in 17 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
We decided to visit Croatia again and so we reserved a mooring place in ACI Marina Cres for June 2016. My friends Gerhard and Kurt came on board on Saturday 21st May to help me sailing our boat to Croatia. We planned to sail quickly in three legs to Montenegro, visit Kotor Bay and then sailing slowly north along the best sites in Croatian waters.
At noon of May 22th we were ready to set sail from Licata and did a short first leg to Marina di Ragusa, where we had a rather mediocre pizza at Ristorante Miramare .
Next day we left early east and at the SE end of Sicily we decided to cross directly to Calabria because of nice strong winds from astern. In the night volcano Etna was very active, wind and waves got rather strong and squally, changing directions very often.
Near Spartivento the wind stopped and we had to start the motor again, but in vain: after checking the diesel supply pipe and the prefilter I found them clogged by black slime - a clear sign of the infamous diesel bug.
Those are microbes clogging the filters in the fuel system unpredictably. There are numerous reports, where the engines stopped suddenly in wrong moments. Thanks to a new crazy European law requiring taxed diesel fuel to have a "bio" content the whole sailing community has this problem now. I changed all filters and cleaned all pipes, but I was not able to get the engine running again.
With strong northerly winds we sailed to Roccella Ionica, anchored under sail in front of the harbor. Then we contacted the helpful harbor master and when winds calmed down a friendly fisherman came with his strong boat, took us alongside and towed us into the harbor. Next day a helpful technician got the engine running again not without warning us, that this could happen anytime again...
We rented bycicles and rode to the center where we had a nice dinner at Bio Ristorante Amal.
Next day we took on our next leg and arrived after 22 hours in Santa Maria di Leuca. We visited the city and the famous light house and had a marvelous dinner at the well-hidden Trattoria Boccondivino.
On May 28th we sailed with nice southeasterly winds north via the straith of Otranto into Montenegro, where we arrived after 30 hours in Tivat, cleared customs with no problems, and got a mooring place in Porto Montenegro.
We had craft beers and steaks for dinner at The Black Sheep
Next morning we sailed round the beautiful bay of Kotor, moored in Kotor, climbed up to the Castle Of San Giovanni and enjoyed the wonderful view over Kotor Bay. Then we had our first typical dinner at Ponta Veranda: Pleskavica, Onions, and cabbage salad.
Early next day we declared exit in Tivat and sailed northwest into Cavtat, where we declared entry, cleared customs and payed the yearly Croatian fees to the harbor master. Then we continued along the walls of Dubrovnik to Celo Bay at Kolocep island, where we anchored and savoured pancakes with apricot jam.
With rather strong southeasterly wind we sailed next day into Lastovo, where we anchored in Mali Lago Bay and cooked spaghetti with tuna.
June 2nd we sailed to Vis, replenished our supplies, ate at Dudo Restaurant, and visited the famous Lion of Lissa. In the afternoon with no apparent reason we had to leave the city quai and moved to Kut in the east of Vis bay and moored there.
Nice winds brought us next day into the bay of Sibenik, where we visited the wonderful city in light rain. In the afternoon we continued through long fjords to Skradin, where we moored in the marina and had a remarkable good dinner at
Konoba Dalmatino.
Early next morning we visited the Krka falls and then sailed back to Sibenik and onwards Uvala Zincena on Otok Pasman, where we anchored and fried a nice steak with potatoes.
From Pasman we sailed next day through the Kornati archipelago and continued to Ist, where we moored at the village quai. At Lako Cemo we enjoyed lamb chops grilled to perfection by a nice grillmaster on a sophisticated barbecue.
On June 6th we sailed further north through Ilovik channel and finally moored in Marina Mali Losinj. We had a nice walk round the beautiful city and had a fine dinner in the nice garden at Konoba Hajduk.
At 09:00 next day we wanted to sail through the turning bridge at Mali Losinj, but it was broken. So we sailed round the southern end of Losinj and east to the beautiful Uvala Meli in the southern end of Otok Cres, where we anchored, enjoyed a nice swim in crital clear waters, and savoured two nice brancinos prepared in our oven.
Finally on June 8th we had to tack against northerly wind along the east coast of Cres, rounded Cap Jablanac and then the wind ceased. While we had to motor again the engine stopped 3 miles north of our destination - the diesel bug hit us again. I cleared the fuel lines again and bled the diesel pump in the secret ways I learned thwo weeks ago from the nice Calabrian mechanic and so we reached our final destination ACI Marina Cres in the evening. We had late dinner at Konoba Roza and slept very good in our boat safely moored in nice surroundings.
Next day I scheduled a date with the Volvo mechanic on site for a full motor service and cleaning of both tanks and then we went back home to Vienna.
We sailed 186h and logged 972sm in 17 days.
You may download our track in gpx-format
or view it directly on GoogleMaps
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