Monday, September 17, 2018

Smooth Autumn Sailing from Dubrovnik to Laguna di Marano

When my special crew Andreas and Kurt arrived by plane and provisions from Dubrovnik market were bunkered we left ACI Marina Dubrovnik September 5th afternoon. We tacked northwest in the direction Ston and reached Uvala Kobas late after sunset, but Ante Bjelančić Bjelko waited for us at his wonderful restaurant Gastro Mare and prepared an exquisite 5 course dinner, all based on fresh fish.

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After a nice swim and a healthy breakfast we set sail further west to beautiful Uvala Krisice on Otok Mljet. After a long swim in tourquise waters we continued to Uvala Polace, where we anchored for the night and Andreas prepared pork chops with mushrooms and a spicy paprika chutney. After rounding the utmost westerly tip through Uvala Pomena we set sail to Korcula, where we moored at the ACI Marina and explored the medieval city. After a nice dinner at Aterina we enjoyed a nice baroque concert in the cathedral Sveti Marco performed superbly by Finish artists.

Next day we had excellent sailing weather with nice northwesterly winds - so we sailed alongside the south coast of Hvar, then changed course for Vis and then tacked to the west of Pakleni archipelago and finally anchored after 68 miles in in Uvala Solinska east of Drvenik Veli, where we enjoyed Spaghetti con Colatura di Alici on board. Early next morning we motored south of Hrid Mulo and Otok Zirje. With slight northwesterly winds we tacked through the Kornati Archipelago. Finally we moored at Konoba Levrnaka, went for a walk and a swim and savored a sumptuous fish dinner.

After a good sleep we continued in Kornati National Park passing shallow Vela Provesa and then motoring with no wind on the northeasterly side of Dugi Otok. After passing Otok Premuda to the west with some wind we tacked into Uvala Krivica on Otok Losinj. Somebody had mounted a vast amount of mooring buoys, so we took three of them and enjoyed the quiet waters and a healthy amount of bacon and cheese with a good bottle of Refosco on board.

On Tuesday, 11th we crossed to Susak harbor, where we had a nice walk to the famous lighthouse and the upper village. At noon we continued across Kvarner Gulf and with increasing winds we tacked around Hrid Porer and finally dropped anchor in Uvala Soline, where we prepared a fancy Waldorf salad accompanied by some hearty Kranjska Klobasa. Next morning we passed Pula harbor, motored through Fazansky canal and then alongside Rovinj and Vrsar.

At noon we tacked with some nothwesterly winds to Novigrad, where we moored in Nautica Marina, explored the nice city and grew enthusiastic about a raw fish menu at Damir & Ornella. We declared exit at Novigrad harbor master and police. We motored north passing Savudrija lighthouse, Piran and finally moored at Marina San Giusto in Trieste. We visited the gorgeous Eataly store near the marina, and took a nice walk around the city. For dinner we went uphill into the heart of Trieste to Trattoria da Mara, where we tried pasta and deserts typical for the old city.

After a nice Bircher muesli for breakfast we did a small cruise around the busy harbor, passed Miramare castle continued into Grado lagoon and moored in the old city harbor of Grado at last. After exploring the sights of Grado and a healthy walk on the sandy beach we had a wonderful fish dinner at Tavernetta all'Androna. For the last leg of our cruise we exited the lagoon, passed Porto Buso and entered Laguna di Marano near Lignano Sabbiadoro, mastered the shallows of Canale Cialisia and reached Marina Stella at high tide. We celebrated our safe return at Al Cacciatore with prosciutto, pasta, Prosecco, and Merlot.

We sailed 80h and logged 394sm in 11 days.

You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Wednesday, September 5, 2018

"Sailing to Korcula" - Laguna di Marano to Dubrovnik in 8 Days

On a cold winter night in Vienna at a crew-meeting a visionary idea was developed: "Sailing to Korcula". This idea grew steadily and so my crew (Eva, Evi, Ilse, and Jutta) arrived in Marina Stella on Friday, August 24th for realization. But heavy rain, thunderstorms and strong onshore winds delayed our departure until Monday 27th. In the meantime we visited Aquilea, Grado and Palmanova by car, walked the beach at Lignano Riviera and visited nice restaurants at Ristorante La Darsena and Ristorante 900 all'isola.

Finally on Monday 27th we sailed through Laguna di Marano and set course south. After some hands-on training and MOB-exercises we arrived in Porec, where we declared entry in Croatia and filled our diesel tanks. To make up for our delay we sailed southeast through the night with nice northwesterly winds passing Susak, Premuda, Dugi Otok, and finally entered Kornati islands at Sestrice lighthouse after 28 hours and 155sm. We moored at Konoba Levrnaka , jumped into the clear water, explored this beautiful island and had a nice fish-dinner.

Early on Wednesday, August 29th with good wind we sailed through the Kornati archipelago, passed Otok Zirje and Hrid Mulo and anchored in Uvala Solinska east of Drvenik Veli and prepared pasta con tonno. Next morning after a short stop to buy fresch bread and fruits in the nice harbor Maslinica west of Otok Solta, we explored Pakleni archipelago, visited Hvar harbor and continued to Otok Skedro, where took a buoy in Uvala Moster (Mastir), took a walk to the old monastery, and had a wonderful grilles amberjack prepared skillfully by the friendly Kordic Family .

Friday after some nice sailing and swimming at Otocic Mala Kneza we reached the zenith of our cruise, the harbor of Korcula. We explored the medieval town, its churches and towers, and had a inspiring dinner at Aterina Restaurant. Next day we tacked against a fine southerly breeze and finally moored at Konoba Maran in cozy Uvala Okuklje in Otok Mljet. We enjoyed swimming in this picturesque and secluded bay and enjoyed an exquisite dinner at this Swiss-Croatian restaurant.

At sunrise we walked around the bay to St.Nicolas church, had another good swim and set sail east to Lopud, where we could not find a secure ground for our anchor. So we finally arrived at Uvala Donje Celo west of Otok Kolocep, anchored there and relished a hot vegetable risotto onboard. In the night we encountered some lightening and a short squall.

For our last leg we set sail further east with southwesterly winds, rounded Otok Lokrum, passed the city walls of ancient  Dubrovnik, explored Gruz harbor with the new Marina Frapa , and finally moored in ACI Marina Dubrovnik  in river Dubrovačka. After strolling around the city walls of ancient Dubrovnik we celebrated our ambitious "Korcula" cruise at Konoba Jezuite.

In 8 days we logged 346sm in 66h sailing time.

You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Monday, August 13, 2018

Relaxing and Sailing in Northern Adria

When my sister Gabriela and her friend Herbert arrived in Marina Stella on Sunday, August 5th we celebrated with a nice 6 course fish dinner at Trattoria Barcaneta in Marano. Early at sunrise with high tide we left Laguna di Marano east to Punta Faro, Lignano and with slight northerly wind we sailed south east to Umag, where we declared entry in Croatia. We explored the bays south of Umag, saw some jelly fish, and finally dropped anchor in Uvala Mujela north of Novigrad for relaxing two days. We swam over to the Kostanjija camping site to buy some bread.

Wednesday, 8th we sailed south, had a relaxing swim in Uvala Crlena Zemlja, continued to Vrsar, and moored in the marina. We explored the old city and had a Croatian dinner at Kod Luce. Next morning we moved to Stancija Valkanela for a long morning swim and a healthy breakfast. Then we sailed north to Novigrad, where we took a buoy and had dinner at Konoba Cok.

After a bumpy night with much swell we declared exit and left Croatia for Porto Buso, where we anchored inside Laguna di Marano in front of Isola Anfora. We took the dinghy to Ai Ciudi, where we sampled many exquisite fish dishes and drank local Prosecco. After a quiet night in the lagoon we motored inside Laguna di Marano west on Litoranea Veneta with minimum depth of 1.3m and reached Marina Stella at noon. At Ristorante 900 all'isola we finished our cruise with a delicious dinner.

We sailed 29h and logged 110sm in 6 days. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Monday, August 6, 2018

Grandsons Sailing round Northern Adria

My two youngest grandsons Laurenz (3 years) and Valentin (9 month) with their parents Sophie and Christian, and their uncle Roland arrived in Marina Stella on Saturday 21st July. After two days of leisure in the beautiful and quiet marina and the spacious swimming pool we left for Croatia with a nice north westerly wind on Monday 23rd. We declared entry in Novigrad and dropped anchor in quiet Uvala Busuja for two relaxing days and nights.

Again with steady north westerly winds we sailed south to Pula, where we moored in the ACI Marina, had an early dinner with Pljeskavica sa sirom at Jupiter and explored the busy city at night. Early next morning we bought fish and vegetables at the picturesque Pula market and continued with light rain into the Medulin archpelago, where we anchored in Uvala Bijeca with pasta di verdura on board.

After a visit to the beach we crossed Kvarner Gulf and reached Susak harbor, where we found a mooring place on the outside mole. We - and in particular our youngsters - enjoyed three leisurely days at the shallow sandy beach playing, swimming, and walking. In the evening we relished dinner at Sansegus.

At noon of Monday, July 30th we motored to the south of Otok Losinj and anchored in crystal clear Uvala Tomozina for another comfortable swim and a good pasta meal. Next morning we crossed Kvarner Gulf back north tacking in a nice northerly wind and dropped anchor in Uvala Paltana for some swim and a lot of pancakes.

With no wind we motored further south alongside Pula and through Fazansky Kanal east of Brijuni and dropped anchor in turquoise Uvala Pulari south of Rovinj.

After a rather windy swim we left Uvala Pulari, passed north of Otocic Sveti Andrija rounded Otok Sveta Katarina with a nice view of Rovinj, took a swim in Uvala Sesula and finally moored in Marina Porec. We had a good Croatian dinner at Konoba Aba and strolled around in the old city. Next morning we bunkered some food, refueld some diesel, and declared exit. With fine east-north-easterly winds we sailed north until Grado, where we moored in the city harbor early afternoon. We strolled around the city, visited the sandy beach and enjoyed dinner at Osteria in Contrada.

We left Grado at noon on Saturday, August 4th, crossed the Bay south of Porto Buso and entered Laguna di Marano again east of Punta Faro, Lignano. Two hours before high tide we passed Canale Cialisia with a minimum depth of 1.4m and finally moored in Marina Stella early afternoon. We finalized our infant-cruise with a healthy dinner at Al Cacciatore .

We sailed 51h and logged 233sm in 13 days. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Saturday, July 21, 2018

Cruising Laguna di Marano

After Jonas and his parents had left my wife Ilse and I left Marina Stella on Monday, July 16th three hours before high tide, motored downstream Fiume Stella, pumped up our lifting keel and rudder to a draft of 0.9m, and continued with no wind through the piles of Canale Cialisia. We decided to continue inside Laguna di Marano on the famous Litoranea Veneta, so we motored north in the direction to Marano and then turned east into Alacciante di San Andrea, turned south to shallow Canale Zelina with only 1.2m depth, where we again turned east through Canale Muro with minimum depths of 1.5m to Porto Buso. Continuing Canale Anfora Vecchia e passed north of Isola Anfora. In Canale Secco minimum depth was 1.8m and further east in Canale di San Pietro depths were never below 2m. We moored in the town harbor of Grado, strolled around the old city and enjoyed dinner in Osteria in Contrada, while heavy thunderstorms hit the city.

We bought some bread, prosciutto and ravioli at the local market in the morning and then left the Laguna. For a good swim we anchored south of Villaggio Primero. With black clouds we continued east and after turning north for Monfalcone we were hit by forceful squalls and a heavy hailstorm. We entered the harbor and anchored in Bacino di Panzano east of Fincantieri shipyard. Soon the weather cleared up and we could see assiduous works going on on the new M/S Costa Venezia  with a lenght of 323m for up to 5260 Chinese guests. We had the ravioli from Grado  for dinner.

Next morning we explored the Timavo canals northeast of Monfalcone, visited Duino and Sistiana and anchored for a swim south of Aurisina. At Castello di Miramare we turned south for Marina San Rocco, where we moored and walked to Muggia, where we had a delicious fish-dinner on the terrace of Ittiturismo La Terrazza.

With nice weather we continued south into Slovenia next day and anchored in Strunjansky Zaliv for some good swimming, salads and wine on board. A nice southerly wind pushed us next morning on our last leg back to Lignano and upstream to Marina Stella.

We sailed 26h and logged 104sm in 5 days. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

Venice Lagoon via Istria to Marano Lagoon

On Wednesday 4th, July two hours before high tide my 5 year old grandson Jonas, his parents Isa and Matthias and my wife Ilse left Marina Stella, motored downstream Fiume Stella, then followed Canale Cialisia, and set sail east of Lignano tacking west to Jesolo. After sunset we moored in Porto Touristico di Jesolo and had perfect Pizza at Da Berton.

Next morning we continued west, stopped for a short swim and entered Venice Lagoon through Porto Lido. We moored vis a vis  San Marco Square at San Giorgio Maggiore, where the friendly ormeggiatore of Compagnia della Vela Venezia waited for us.

For the next two days we explored Venice by foot and vaporetto. Jonas had three times delicious ice cream at Gelato Fantasy
We very very happy with Guidecca Restaurants  al storico da Crea and AltanellaAi Pescatori on Burano and B Restaurant alla Vecchia Pescheria on Murano.

At noon on Saturday 7th we motored west of Le Vignole and on the north side of Sant' Erasmo, then further north passing San Francesco del Deserto in depth about 2m to Burano, where we turned south to Treporti and then east to Le Saline, where we spent a wonderful night at anchor. At sunrise next morning we set sail to Croatia, leaving Venice Lagoon via Porto Lido. Driven by steady northerly winds we reached Novigrad early afternoon and declared entry into Croatia. We anchored in Luka Cervar Porat, took a healthy swim and had a nice potato and vegetable stew for dinner on board. For another relaxing day at anchor we moved to near Uvala Sv. Martin and savored spaghetti tonno.

Tuesday 10th afternoon we moored in Marina Porec, visited the old city and had dinner at Gostionica Tri Bacve .

Next morning after refueling we motored south to Zelena Laguna, where we spent another leisurely day and night at anchor. We set sail to Novigrad declaring exit next day and motored back to Lignano with no wind at all. After a relaxing swim we entered Marano Lagoon east of Punta Faro and dropped anchor north of Canale Lustri in safe depth of 2m for a lot of pancakes and a peaceful night. With high tide next morning we motored north and up Fiume Stella, and reached finally Marina Stella at noon. We celebrated our cruise and the doctorate conferral of our son Matthias at Trattoria Al Paradiso.

We sailed 35h and logged 177sm in 10 days. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Sunday, June 10, 2018

Culture Cruise in Northern Adriatic Seas

When my friend Wilhelm came on board in Marina Stella on Monday 4th of June 2018 we had to wait for high tide and then motored south through Laguna di Marano and anchored near Porto Buso. Wilhelm prepared a wonderful Risotto di Radicchio. During the night the wind changed and at 5:00 our boat lay only 20cm above a bank of sand. So we started the motor and pulled the boat to deeper grounds before low tide would run us aground.

After a healthy breakfast we set sail to Novigrad, where we declared entry into Croatia and continued south with stormy weather. We moored in Marina Porec and explored the nice medieval city of Porec. We visited the impressive Euphrasian Basilica  and had a nice turbot at Sv. Nicola Restaurant.
We refueled next morning, declared exit and motored north with nearly no wind, passed the famous lighthouse Savudrija and sailed slowly near Piran in Slovenia. Finally we moored in Porto San Rocco Marina, where we took a walk to Muggia and explored the nice city and had a wonderful dinner at the terrace above the fishermans cooperative society at Ittiturismo La Terrazza.

Next morning we went by bus No. 27 to Parco di Muggia Vecchia, where we visited the little basilica of Santa Maria Assunta (10th-13th century), housing frescoes from the 14th-15th centuries. At noon we motored to Trieste and moored in Marina San Giusto. We took bus No 6 to Miramare and visited the nice castle and park with thunder and rain. Back in Trieste we had a very sweet cafe at Peratoners Caffe degli Specchi, visited the new branch of Eataly and had a nice dinner at Al Bagatto.

After a heavy thunderstorm we sailed west to Grado, visited the small city harbor and then motored north through Canale della Taida and further on fiume Natissa to Marina di Aquileia. During high tide the minimum water level was 1.4m. We visited the famous Basilica di Aquileia with her famous mosaics and frescoes.
With the help of a friendly Italian couple who took us back to the marina in heavy rain in their small car we had a hefty pizza at Da Nettuno

Early on Saturday, 9th with sunny weather we went back south and motored west through Litoranea Veneta and Taglio Nuovo. We anchored north of Canale Anfora Vecchia. At noon we took the dinghy to Ai Ciodi , where we enjoyed a selection of tasty Antipasti Mare in a wonderful location. Late afternoon we sailed from Porto Buso to Lignano and continued with high tide up Canale Cialisia with minimum waterlevel of 1.5m to Fiume Stella and ended our cruise moored again in Marina Stella, where we savoured local cheese and Refosco wine.

We sailed 36h and logged 137sm in 6 days. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Cres to Laguna di Marano

All the usual spring maintenance works (antifouling, second electric toilet, motorservice, and repair of the heat-exchanger on my Volvo D2-55) were completed with the helpful mechanics from Marizo in Cres.  So I went by car to Palazzolo dello Stella near Udine, Italy to meet my brother Andreas. We planned to move S/Y Sea of Joy from Cres to Marina Stella for the coming season. We left his car there and went back to Cres with my car.

On Saturday 12th Mai 2018 we set sail south to Otok Unije where we anchored in Uvala Vognisca, did some fishing and had some nice spaghetti for dinner. Next day we took a swim in Uvala Tomocina in the northwest of Losinj and spent the next night in Uvala Radiboj where we did a risky but successful cooking experiment with a Risotto con Kranjska Klobasa.

Early on Monday we set sail across rainy Kvarner Bay to Pula, where we moored in the ACI Marina and had a tasty Pljeskavica at Konoba Jupiter. Next day we got fresh provisions at Pula market and visited the rainy city. Wednesday 16th with better weather we sailed north, passing Sv. Ivan na Pucini , and Vrsar. Afternoon we finally anchored in Sesula Uvala south of Parentium and cooked a nice dinner with stir-fried mackerel.

Next day we sailed further north rounding Porec and Luca Crvar. We moored at noon in Marina Nautica Novigrad and explored the city. We had lunch and dinner at Konoba Cok  where we were very happy with excellent fish and wine and some good conversations with the chef. Friday we declared exit in Novigrad and sailed north, passed Slovenia with Piran, Izola and Koper, rounded the bay of San Bartolemeo. Muggia harbor was completely full, so we moored in Porto San Rocco Marina, hiked back to Muggia, explored the city and had an excellent fish dinner at at the terrace above the fishermans cooperative society at Ittiturismo La Terrazza.

Saturday 19th we sailed round Trieste harbor, passed Castello Miramare and northwest to Duino, where we turned south. We sailed with nice northwesterly winds alongside the coast of Grado as far as Porto Buso, where we turned north into the lagoon, motoring Fiume Aussa and Fiume Corno in Cantieri Marina S. Giorgio. In the evening we hiked 3 km north to San Giorgio di Nogaro to Ristorante Al Portico 'Da Ernesto' , where we had an authentic Friulian dinner. Late at night the nice chef drove us back to the marina.

On Whitsunday we motored back south to Porto Buso, where we turned east and anchored north of Isola Anfora Vand took our dinghy to Ai Ciodi , where we celebrated lunch with a lot of Antipasti Mare and Pasta di Pesce.
In the afternoon we tried to motor further west on Litoranea Veneta through Canale Muro, but had to return at Canale Zellina due to low water. So we sailed outside of the lagoona from Porto Buso to Lignano, where we moored in Marina Punta Faro, walked to Lignano Sabbiadoro and had an exquisite fish dinner at Ristorante Bidin.

Next day we explored the waterways in the Marano Lagoon to Marano Lagunare and Aprilia Marittima and finally motored north through Canale Cialisia at high tide with minimum water level 1.3m and up Fiume Stella to our final destination Marina Stella. For dinner we went to the other side the river to Al Fiume Stella for a creative dinner. For the last day we did a river cruise by dinghy with our Torqeedo electric outboard engine up to Precenicco and in the evening we went to Marano Lagunare to Trattoria Alla Laguna to celebrate our  delivery cruise from Cres to Marina Stella. On a rainy day we went by car to Cortellazzo to visit river Piave with the old ponton bridge and have lunch at Al Traghetto.

On the way back to Vienna we made the detour back to Cres, got my car and said Goodbye to the nice staff of ACI Marina Cres.

We sailed 51h and logged 222 miles in 10 days. You may download our track in gpx-format or view it directly on GoogleMaps.