Roundtrip to Amorgos

All crewmembers came from the Austrian domain registry nic.at: Axel Mayrhofer, Klaus Darilion, Klemens Pidner and Till Radermacher.

With only small winds we sailed south to Leros. On route a new crew member joined our rainy cruise to Leros - a small bird named Icterine Warbler (Hippolais icterina).

In Leros we anchored in heavy rain in front of Pantelis harbor. Soon all lights on the island went out due to a power problem. But late at night starting with candlelight we got our usual excellent meze-dinner at Dimitris Karaflas . Next day we sailed against a 5-6 bft northwest wind to Levitha, where we moored at one of the red bouys in the east cove. After a nice evening walk we had a good dinner with goat and liver-stifado cooked by the island farmers family.

Next morning we continued tacking further west with a lunch-stop at narrow Ormos Pningos at Kinara and finally anchored at a sheltered sandy beach north of Aigiali on the north coast of Amorgos. Starting early next day we had no wind at all and motored all the way to Fourni harbor, where we ate lots of small red fish at Miltos restaurant.

Starting again with no wind we crossed over to the west coast of Samos, where we stopped for a swim at Megalo Sheitani – the most beautiful beach of Samos. Moderate winds brought us further to Kokkari at the north coast of Samos, where we anchored in the small harbour and enjoyed the usual good barbecue dinner at Dyonissios restaurant. On the last day we rounded the northeast corner of Samos, stopped at Megali Lakka for a nice lunch and a swim and finally ended with a speedy sail thru Samos Straits at Pythagorion Marina.

My crew made the best use of all available chances: they tacked when there was lot of wind and they cooked and dined when there was no wind.

11th – 16th September 2009, 213sm, 45 sailing hours

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The Stastny Cruise

The Stastny family is a family of distinguished sailors: Gusti, Julia, Raffael and Richard. I admired their professional sailing of Sea of Joy. We started south visiting the nice east bay under Ns Nero in the north of Agathonisi and anchored finally in front of Pantelis harbour on Leros. Dinner was at Dimitris Karaflas famous meze-restaurant.

After visiting Pantelis castle we continued west tacking against a 6 bft northwest wind to Levitha, where we moored at one of the red bouys in the east cove. After a good evening walk we had dinner at the island farmers family restaurant with perfectly grilled fish and meat. Next day we turned north and sailed to Grikos Bay in Patmos.

Having visited Patmos monastery and apocalipsy cove we sailed with strong northwesterly winds to Marathi in the Arki archipelago, where we enjoyed the usual evening walk and a good dinner at Pantelis restaurant.

Next day we decided to sail through Samos strait to Posidonias Bay. On the last day we did a nice sightseeing sail along the south coast of Samos with an anchor-break at Kiriakouli Bay for lunch and a good swim.

I want to thank the professional Stastny crew for this beautiful sailing week.

4th – 9th September 2009, 168sm, 36 sailing hours

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Istanbul to Samos

After visiting the impressive sites of Istanbul and dining in fabulous restaurants, my wife Ilse and I started our trip cruising from Atakoy Marina through Bosporus Straits to Poyraz, looking into the Black Sea, and then further to Princess Islands, where we anchored in Cam Limani in the South of Heybeliada. We expected a quiet beautiful bay, but reality was different: crowded, loud disco-music, dirty water, lot of wind.

So we started early next morning and sailed with 6Bft from starboard to beautiful Port Maramara, where we replenished our provisions and had dinner at Calif restaurant.

Next day we continued sailing to Gelibolu, where we anchored west of the harbor. We had very good fish at the famous Ilhane restaurant and enjoyed a quiet night.

In the morning we hoisted our Genua only

and dashed thru the beautiful Dardanelles, using the current to a max speed of 10kn. Afternoon we arrived in Bozcaada harbor and had a real gourmet dinner at Lodos restaurant.

Next morning we sailed to the south of Bozcaada, anchored for a swim and then had troubles getting our anchor up, which was stuck between rocks. Only after two courageous runs with full power forward over the anchor we were able to get it back from beautiful Bozcaada island. We continued to Behramkale and anchored east of the harbor, which seemed far to small for us. Because of a strong northwest we decided to stay on board and cooked a creative risotto with cucumber.

Early in the morning the wind calmed down,

so we were able to visit ancient Assos and had a beautiful view over Lesbos Strait. After a refreshing swim we continued to Ayvalik archipelago, spent afternoon at Guemues Koyu and finally anchored in Alibey harbor. After a delicious dinner at Bay Nihat restaurant we had some problems finding our dinghi, because some harbor doors were closed and a motorboat wanted our mooring place. Finally back on board we spent a stormy night, but our good anchor held unperturbed in Alibey harbor.

Arriving at Dikili, the manager of the cooperative of the local fishermen gave us the last mooring place in the crowded harbor directly at the fishrestaurant. Next day he organized a taxi for our visit of ancient Bergamon,

which was most impressive in comparisson to our visit 30 years before. After the second night in Dikili we had to go thru the Turkish exit-procedures with the usual visits to police, customs and harbormaster. We had the impression being the first people to do this in a year because most officials seemed to see our Turkish travellog for the first time.

Likewise time-consuming were the Greek entry-formalities in Mitilini after our short passage to Lesbos, where we finally moored stern-to in the large and noisy harbor. We took two days visiting all archeological sites and museums. Most impressive was Teriade museum south of Mitilini with a collection of works from Picasso, Chagall, Matisse etc. A nice culinary surprise was dinner at the Lemoni kai Prasino Piperi restaurant in the southwestern corner of the harbor.

We continued north relaxing and swimming in Pamfilla bay and then west where we moored in Petras. For the passage to Limnos we started early and arrived in Freshwater Bay in the afternoon, where we anchored near a beautiful sandy beach and relaxed there for three quiet days, enhanced by a short roundtrip and an excellent fishsoup in Moidros Bay.

We explored the south coast of Limnos, swimming and spending one night in the east Bay of Ormos ThanosEast, and finally arrived in Mirina harbor, where we anchored and climbed up to the beautiful castle.

After spending a windy day in Ormos Platy we sailed with strong northerly winds through very high and confused seas back to the west of Lesbos, where we anchored in the clear and cold waters of the beautiful Bay at Sigri.

Next day on the way to Kolpos Kallonis I heard a strange beating sound while motoring. I found the starboard aft mounting of the Volvo diesel becoming loose and fixed it provisorlily while anchoring near Eressou beach. Then we entered Kallonis Bay and anchored at Apothiki in very strong winds.

Continuing east next day with a closed reefed genua I suddenly saw, that the mounting of the genua furler was loose on one side. Counting myself lucky I was able to fix the other side with a spare screw and motored into Plumari harbor. Thanks to a very able mechanic we were able to fix the bolt of the mounting of the genua furler after releasing the backstays a bit. In the evening the nice mechanic came again and adjusted the motor mounting which was not adjusted due to my rough-and ready fixation the last day. Plumary is a nice town, we spent two days there relaxing and replenishing our provisions.

Leaving Plumary with repairs done we reached the eastern Bay of Ormos Tarti, where we anchored and relaxed. But the wind grew stronger again and next morning we left south for Chios. When the wind slowed down we decided to go to Marmaro Bay, but coming nearer the wind grew very stronmg again. So we had to change course again for Mandraki harbor south of Oinoussa. Mandraki was full with motor yachts and we were sent away. But we found a quiet place next to the harbor, where we went for a swim and spent the night undisturbed.

When the wind increased again, we sailed down south to unfinished but secure Marina Chios,

where we lay alongside for three days, renting a car and doing first a roundtrip south to Nea Moni, Lithion, Mesta, Phyrgos and Karfas. The next roundtrip was north to Anavatos, Limnia, Kampia, Viki, Nagos, Kardamyla and Marmaro Bay.

Weather forecast announced much stronger winds for the future, so we started our last leg to Samos with northerly 7Bft winds and arrived there in the evening at Posidonias Bay, where it was quiet and nice. So we spent two days there before sailing the last 5 miles into Samos Marina.

It was an eventful cruise with lots of wind and some quiet and relaxing days. 

 

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Samos to Istanbul

On Friday 26^th July 2009, after having cleared police, harbormaster and customs, S/Y Sea of Joy left Pythagorion harbor through Samos Strait at noon and tacked against westerly wind to Cesme Harbor, where we finally moored near midnight.

Next day we bought the Turkish travel log at the marina office and worked through the tedious entry formalities, visiting police, customs, health control and harbormaster in Cesme. At noon we left north and reached Kavurlukoz harbor, where we were the only sailing boat. The owner of the harbor restaurant started his barbecue and prepared for us a tasty lamb and chicken dinner.

On Sunday we visited Eskifoca, stopped for a swim in beautiful Bademli Channel, nearly got stuck in heavy silted Bademli harbor, and finally squeezed in between small fishing boats in Dikili harbor, where we enjoyed fresh grilled fish at the local harbor restaurant.

Monday morning we restocked our provisions and continued north with weak westerly winds, explored the wonderful Ayvalik archipelago and moored in Adibey harbor, climbed the hill to the old windmill and dined at the famous Bay Nihat restaurant.

We left early Tuesday morning, followed some dolphins near the northern coast of Lesbos, turned north at Babakale and reached Bozcaada harbor, where we enjoyed a swim in clear water and a tasteful dinner at Yakamoz restaurant.

Wednesday we started before dawn to make as much way as possible through the Dardanelles. In weak winds we kept to the south side and explored a maximum current of 2.5 knots near Canakkale at noon. When the wind grew stronger from NE we could tack our way through the northern part of the Dardanelles.

We anchored in the quiet bay of Kemer, where Gerhard prepared his famous “spaghetti con aglio, olio e pomodoro” .

Nice north easterly winds continued on Thursday, so we could sail the whole day in the Sea of Marmara, visiting beautiful Pasalimani and tacking on the northern coast of the Kapidag peninsula, sometimes accompanied by a swarm of friendly dolphins. We spent the night anchoring in Cakilkoy harbor.

Next day we started early sailing further east. When the wind grew weak, we motored NE right to Atakoy marina.

On Saturday we made the usual Bosporus trip, passing the famous Blue Mosque,

then Galata Bridge, Dolmabahce palace, and finally Rumeli castle up north

 

 

Turning south on the Asian side back via Beylerbeyi to Ueskuedar, passing Kiz Kulesi to Fenerbahce Marina.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a total we logged 485sm for this cruise, which took us 88 hours of sailing in 9 days. My ambitious crew made this possible: Congratulations and thanks to Albert Burgstaller, Gerhard Heumayer and Kurt Drexler (from left to right) !

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